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Over the course of our many trips to Montréal,
the city has become a beloved second home to us. Here's
a brief overview.
Upon first impression, Montréal has the flavor of a European city: majestically old-world and perhaps more formal than any other city in North America. The impression comes
from visiting Old Montréal, the first and sometimes the only neighborhood tourists see. Old Montréal, with its Parisian paradox of narrow alleys and large neo-Gothic buildings on
the St. Lawrence River, looks like, and is equally as beautiful as, the city on the Seine. You shouldn't miss Old Montréal -- and it's part of our walking tour on Saturday
afternoon, August 31.
The
rest of Montréal couldn't be more different. Our
favorite neighborhood, and the favorite of many native
Montréalers, is Plateau Mont-Royal. Simply
called "The Plateau" by locals, it was voted
one of the 15 hippest neighborhoods in North America.
We put it in the top five.
The Plateau has an electic array of fun stores, trendy
shops, colorful cafes and Montréal's finest restaurants.
Combine King's Road in Chelsea, London with the Upper
West Side of Manhattan.
Rue
St-Denis is the essence of The Plateau. Walk the first
10 blocks on rue St-Denis north beginning at Sherbrooke,
and The Plateau's eye and mouth candy is all yours.
Montréal's topography is an easy compass, by the
way. North is up the hill.
As if The Plateau already didn't offer enough -- Dayenu!
-- it also has vestiges of Montréal's old Jewish
community, which has since moved to the now predominantly
Jewish neighborhoods of Westmount and Côte St-Luc,
and in far greater numbers to Toronto.
The Plateau's rue St-Laurent, once Montréal's main
street and still called "The Main" by locals,
is home to Schwartz's Deli, famous across Canada as
the leading restaurant for Montréal Smoked Meat.
Flavored somewhere in between corned beef and pastrami,
it is sensational. Montréal
Smoked Meat will be featured at the After-Party that Aunt Thea Flaum and Bob Hill are hosting at the Omni on Sunday night, September 1.
Off
rue St-Laurent is the St-Viateur Bagel Shop, to which
we directly drive from the airport whenever we visit
Montréal. Montrealers believe St-Viateur makes
the best bagels in Montréal, and that Montréal
makes the best bagels in the world -- even better than
New York's. That is a painful but necessary admission
for one of us to make. Montréal bagels, made with
honey water and cooked in a wood-fired brick oven, are
crunchier, sweeter and more addictive than their New
York counterparts.
Because we love you and want you to share in our little
bite of heaven, St-Viateur bagels will be on the buses
from Montréal to Vermont on Sunday, September 1.
Anglophones and most customers, incidentally, pronounce
it Vee-AY-ter and not the French Vee-ah-TOOR.
Downtown
Montréal is where Celebrating 10 is based. Rue
Sherbrooke, the main street of Downtown, evokes Michigan
Avenue in Chicago. At the core of Downtown, called the
Golden Square Mile because of its affluence, lay the
Musée des beaux-arts, prestigious McGill University,
the Hotel Omni Mont-Royal and the other recommended
hotels of Celebrating 10.
Downtown is also home to much of Montréal's nightlife,
concentrated on two streets: Crescent Street, which
abuts one side of the Musée des beaux-arts, and
rue Ste-Catherine, one of the city's major boulevards.
Think Chicago's Rush and Division Streets at night.
By
day, Crescent Street and rue Ste-Catherine have a different
flair, marked by classic downtown shopping. Crescent
Street, with one elegant boutique after another, feels
like Oak Street in Chicago. The always bustling rue
Ste-Catherine, with its larger stores and indoor malls,
is more crowded and unordered, like Herald Square in
New York.
No matter what store or restaurant in Montréal
you visit, by the way, you'll have no language barrier.
Though two-thirds of the city's residents are Francophones
-- those for whom French is their first language --
and one-third is Anglophone, nearly everyone speaks
English and French. Montréal is a thoroughly and
comfortably bilingual city, however much other parts
of Québec province may not be.
Geographically, Downtown Montréal is misnamed.
If "downtowns" mean they're at one end of
a city or another, Downtown Montréal, in contrast,
is fairly much in the center. To give you a visual sense,
picture a hill with three ascending layers. At the bottom,
which abuts the water, is Old Montréal. The middle
level upward is Downtown. And upward from there is The
Plateau. No wonder Downtown Montréal is called
"Centre-Ville" in French. We don't want to
overdo the hill image, though. Montréal is hardly
as steep as, and far bigger than, say, Haifa.
It
dawns on us, now, that many of our references have been
to places Jewish. That means either Montréal is
a heck of a lot more Jewish than most people think,
or you're experiencing a travelogue through your guides'
Ashkenasic kaleidoscope on life. Actually, after reading
the initial draft of this, Daniel told Steven that he,
Steven, is the only person on earth who could make Montréal,
the most Catholic city in North America, sound like
the Knesset.
That's not fair. Have we not gone into detail about
our patron saint, St-Viateur? Okay, okay. Let's mention
two things in Montréal that aren't Jewish. Notre-Dame
Basilica, located in Old Montréal, and Céline Dion.
She got married at the Basilica, one of the world's
most massive cathedrals and an unequivocal must-see.
We hear it's beautiful.
Now
back to our regularly scheduled program. The city seems
like Eretz Montréal for a reason. Montréal
has 1.8 million residents, of whom 1/3 are Anglophones.
Of those 600,000 Anglophones, approximately 100,000
are Jewish. That 1 in 6 proportion, or 17 percent, is
not much lower than the 22 percent of New York City
that's Jewish. Thirty to 40 years ago, when Montréal's
Jewish population was closer to 150,000, Anglophone
Montréal would have been, as a city of its own,
the most Jewish city in the diaspora.
Today, Montréal's Jewish population, which left
for Toronto in droves when the Québec separatist revolution
began in the 1960s, is showing new signs of life. At
a political nadir are Québec's separatism and the anti-semitism
laced in it. Conversely, the merger of Montréal's
Jewish suburbs into the city proper last year changed
the landscape to elect Montréal's first new mayor
in years -- and he is supportive of the Jewish community.
The city is even has new Jewish immigrants: Francophones
from Morocco who own many of the Moroccan restaurants
in The Plateau.
Going
from the west side of Montréal, which encompasses
most of Downtown, and then across the city to the east
side, you'll find the Gay Village. It's one of the most
vibrant lesbian and gay neighborhoods in any city.
Yet the Gay Village is not as upscale as gay neighborhoods
elsewhere have become. It's not as trendy as New York's
Chelsea nor as quaint as Toronto's Queen Street. But
what the Gay Village doesn't have in affluence, it makes
up for in a Castro Street-like intensity. As with the
Castro in San Francisco, Montréal's Gay Village
seems to be celebrated officially by city government.
The metro station in the Gay Village features a rainbow
glass design.
The
Province of Québec, moreover, is one of the most progressive
places in the world for gaies et lesbiennes. In 1999,
Québec enacted a provincial law that gives same-sex
couples comprehensive domestic partnership rights similar
to those under Vermont's Civil Union law, enacted in
2000.
Straight Montrealers, we've found, are downright proud
of the city's lesbian and gay community -- specifically
of how the community has improved the Gay Village for
everyone. In fact, the city conducted an aggressive
campaign for the 2006 Gay Games, and won them! You're
welcome to join us in Montréal for Celebrating
14.
To get to the Gay Village, take the metro to Beaudry
station or ride 10 minutes by cab to the corners of
rue Beaudry and rue Ste-Catherine Est.
So there it is, our wonderful Montréal. Exciting,
magnificent, gustatorily stupendous and ever-more progressive.
We're in love.
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